In honor of the 60th Anniversary of the Cannes film festival I’ve created a decadent dinner to enjoy at home. Think of it like an Oscar party but French! Pour a glass of champagne and enjoy watching all the televised glitz and glamour while eating grilled veal finished with herb-orange butter and white asparagus topped with sauce maltaise (an orange flavored hollandaise sauce). This recipe is straightforward and elegant. Don’t be afraid of the sauce, it’s really not difficult…
Before moving to Paris I had never tasted fresh white asparagus. I had only tried it once from a can and it was stringy, wet, limp, and disgusting. Although I had seen it before in markets, I never attempted to try it because of my previous experience. When I arrived in Paris some friends invited me over for a dinner of filet mignon and white asparagus served with hollandaise sauce. I couldn’t believe how sweet the asparagus was and how well it pared with with the creaminess of the sauce. (of course, what doesn’t hollandaise sauce taste good on?). This recipe is inspired from that first meal – Thanks Jenny & Stuart!!!
White asparagus has a very short season from April to May. Although the stalks appear white, it is really green asparagus that has been covered with at least 8 inches of mulch to keep sunlight away from the ripening spears. The spears are harvested before their tips grow through the top of the mulch. The base of the stalks tend to be woodier than green asparagus and need to be peeled with a vegetable peeler. If this step is left out, the eating experience will be not-so-nice as fibrous strings will prove difficult to cut and chew.
Sauce maltaise is just a gussied up hollandaise sauce. I prefer to make this the traditional way over the stove, but it can be made in a blender as well. Instead of thinning the egg yolks with water add reduced orange juice with some finely chopped orange zest (1 Tablespoon per egg yolk). The egg yolk and juice is then whisked over an open bainmarie of water until it has tripled in size, lightened in color, and thickened enough to see the bottom of the bowl. Next, remove from heat and slowly drizzle warm (not hot!!!) clarified butter. Reserve in a warm place (it cannot be reheated!) for up to an hour, but preferably just minutes from serving it.
Veal tends to be a sensitive subject in the U.S. because of the way it is raised. I only buy veal that has been allowed to live life outside in the open as opposed to in a crate inhibiting ability to move or stand. I once viewed a baby calf that was raised this way at a dairy farm in Holland and that memory will forever haunt me when I shop for veal at the supermarket. Veal doesn’t have to be raised inhumanely to taste tender. The herb-orange butter melts over the top of the veal fillets after grilling to give it a beautiful glaze and delicate flavor.
For recipe press continue reading at bottom of the page…
Technorati Tags: asperges, Chef, Food, hollandaise, how to video, maltaise, Ms. Glaze, Paris, Cannes film festival, sauce, veal, video, white asparagus
Veau Grillée et Asperges Sauce Maltaise
serves 4 persons
Ingredients
4 fillets of veal about 150g each, bound with string
16 stalks of white asparagus
2 oranges juiced plus zest of one whole orange chopped (half of zest for herb butter, half for sauce)
325 grams of sweet butter (75g for herb butter, 150g for sauce)
2 egg yolks
Herbs: few sprigs of thyme, chives, and sage leaves
Fleur de sel
Freshly ground pepper
Instructions
1. Prepare white asparagus first. Snap off ends and peel stalks with vegetable peeler. Blanch in boiling water for 6-7 minutes until tender-crisp. Cool in an ice bath to stop cooking. Reserve for barbecue in an aluminum packet with 2 Tablespoons of water to keep moist while grilling.
2. Prepare herb-orange butter. In a mixing bowl add 75g of softened sweet butter plus finely chopped herbs and zest of one half orange. Mix thoroughly with spatula. Add three to four big pinches of fleur to sel and freshly ground pepper. Butter should be salty. Place on a sheet of Saranwrap and roll up into a sausage about 1″ in diameter. Freeze until ready to barbecue veal.
3. For sauce maltaise: reduce juice of two oranges to 1/2 and add the rest of the finely chopped orange zest. Cool. In another small pot melt the rest of the butter on low heat until just melted. To clarify butter pour gently into a paper towel lined strainer into another pot. Place butter back on stove to keep warm (Not hot!!! Very important!!)
4. Prepare an open bainmaire or double boiler by filling a skillet with water and setting it to simmer (not boil!). In a mixing bowl that is safe for placing in the bainmarie, whisk two egg yolks and two Tablespoons of orange juice with zest until frothy. Place egg-juice mixture over simmering bainmarie and whisk constantly. If the bowl feels too hot lift it out of the water and continue whisking. The eggs will triple in volume and lighten in color. When it is finished you will be able to see the bottom of the bowl after each whisk stroke.
5. Remove bowl and set on a dish towel to keep it from rocking. Gently pour in warm clarified butter while stiring the mixture with your whisk. Add fleur de sel to taste. Cover with Saranwrap and keep in a warm place. This sauce cannot be reheated and it is best when made moments before serving. The reduced juice and clarified butter can be made ahead of time so the sauce can be whipped up at the last minute. It should only take a minute or two to make. Keep by the barbecue so it stays warm.
6. To cook veal make a hot barbecue. Place asparagus packet off to a cool part of the grill to re-heat. Season veal generously with fleur de sel and pepper. Cover with olive oil to keep from sticking to the grill. Sear all sides of the veal quickly to lock in juices and create a nice crust. Then cook veal on a cooler part of barbecue for about 2-3 minutes each side for rosé. The accurate cooking time will depend on how long it has taken to the veal to sear. Place a thin slice of herb butter over veal right before removing from grill so it can melt.
7. Serve veal fillets with four asparagus stalks each topped with sauce maltaise. Garnish with extra blanched orange zest and herbs of your choice!
Your hollandaise method is intéressant. I still use the method I learned from Len Deighton in the ’70s. You really have to do it at the last moment, so you miss the interesting flirtations at the dinner table, and there’s always the risk of producing a sauce cassé. So, thanks for another good’un (I know and love white asparagus — tried to grow some once, failure).
Bonjour Stu! I hope I didn’t lead anyone astray thinking that they could prepare hollandaise sauce way far in advance!?!?! You’re right about doing it right before serving. As you know it CANNOT be reheated. Normally I cook my steaks and let them rest, then whip up the sauce. That way it’s perfect – but when I’m filming it’s a little difficult to get the right flow.
The only time I’ve really messed up the sauce was when either the butter was hot instead of warm or the skillet with water was boiling instead of gently simmering. Then I curdle the eggs and have to start over.
You know, there is a way to save broken hollandaise sauce if it breaks while adding the butter. It’s possible to add another egg yolk to bring it back together. At least that’s what the Joy of Cooking says but I’ve never tried it.
Bisous! Ms. Glaze
Hiya Stu – I forgot to ask, didn’t Len Deighton write spy novels or something? I vaguely remember a movie with Michael Cain. Does he have an extra secret hollandaise recipe for us!?!?
Fleur de sel?
Yes, fleur de sel in both the herb butter and the hollandaise sauce.
Yes indeed, Len Deighton was first a spy novelist (The Ipcress File, Billion Dollar Brain [made into a movie starring Françoise Dorleac, who died in a gruesome car crash on the Grande Corniche before post-production was finished, but I digress]) second a cooking enthusiast and overall nice guy to have a beer or three with.
Rescuing sauce cassé: The principle, both for hollandaise and mayonnaise, is to start with a fresh yolk and drip the spoiled mixture into it, whisking frantically. A few drops of iced water can also (sometimes) work magic. I can’t think of a worse cooking moment than seeing your sauce separate before your appalled eyes; ugghhhh….
Oh, wait, the Deighton recipe was the point, not nostalgia for dead, gorgeous, french actresses… well, essentially the same except he doesn’t pre-melt the butter, and stabilises the mixture with a little lemon juice. Emulsification is a scientific process you can’t really mess with too much.
Please excuse the triple-post: this is interesting. I just did a swift wiki-research and was reminded that Len originally produced his cooking tips in the form of cartoon strips in the London Observer. Go to http://www-staff.mcs.uts.edu.au/~tomlin/LD/cooking.html to see an example. I’m absolutely sure, now that my memory has been jogged, that this was the format in which the hollandaise recipe reached me. Clever idea….
Cool Stuart! Thanks for the triple post. I’m triple posting today too – and not just to make my blog look popular although it doesn’t hurt (hee hee). I’m a little curious about the unmelted butter in the hollandaise sauce. It really works? The lemon juice I normally add only for hollandaise sauce although you can add a little for acidity to sauce maltaise.
And just to clarify TSC Girl’s question, fleur de sel is: “flower of the salt.” A rare sea salt harvested by hand in Brittany, France and available only in limited quantities. Composed of the natural crystal formations found on the surface of a salt marsh. The crystals are sun-dried only, thereby maintaining many of the nutrients not found in typical prepared salts.
Bisous,
Ms. Glaze
>It really works?
Sure. Of course you do it a little at a time. I might even speculate that keeping the temperature down is a Good Thing™….
Hey Amy your veal looks beautiful. tu peux faire une sauce maltaise à l’avance, le tout c’est de ne pas la garder dans un endroit qui est trop chaud.
Et puis faire comme dans les années 70 c’est bien mais il faut savoir évoluer avec son temps, tu sais tu peux faire une mayonnaise ou une hollandaise avec un mixer, c’est très bien et ça va plus vite (je te montrerais quand tu reviendras).
En tout cas ton blog est vraiment superbe et ne fais pas attention au personnes qui peuvent le critiquer (ils le font parce qu’il sont jaloux).
A bientôt.
Bonjour Amy:
I will be attending Le Cordon Bleu on June 11th..I’m so excited and have been such a huge fan of your Blog. Can’t wait to see you on the food network here in the States.
Wow Amit! Merci Bien!!! That makes my day for sure. I can’t wait to here about your LCB experience 😉
Bisous,
Ms. Glaze
I love Paris on the Terrace! My husband and I love your blog, all the way from Winnipeg, Canada, and sigh for the day when we can afford to travel to all the places you’ve been and taste all the foods you describe. Granted, if we stopped indulging ourselves here we might have better luck saving up for a trip to visit my family in Paris… and I hear it’s much cheaper to get to Morocco and England from Paris than Winnipeg… but still…. musicians’ salaries should be bigger!
Keep up the awesome blog.
What fun, again! I am enjoying these video posts, and imagining that I have a terrace in Paris as well.
I enjoy your cooking demos. The presentation is beautiful. The chopping sounds help me feel that I am right in the room with you. But…please be careful of all the ‘gonnas’ you say–I know it is American (and I am American) but the ‘gonnas’ detract from the classiness.
Thanks Ms. Glaze, I’ve learned so much by ‘watching’ your blog… haha…
Seren – You’re right! But I taught cooking to teenagers for such a long time that I’m afraid some speech habits die hard, “First you’re gonna _____, then you’re gonna _____, then you’re gonna clean up or I won’t give you a grade. Any questions?”
Chaxiubao – Loved your last post on all the different types of chinese chicken recipes. Fascinating!!!!
Although normally I buy green asparagus, reading this recipe inspired me to buy white asparagus on my last visit to the vegetable market- but they were horrible and bitter!! We could barely eat an inch of the spear. Was the bitterness because it is so late in the season and they were not good? Or did I cook them wrong? Or was it just a case of not peeling enough? I am baffled, having eaten white aspargus several times at someone else’s hous when it tasted fine.
Oh no! Bitter white asparagus? Blech!!! They are out of season I’m afraid, which probably accounts for the bitterness. You do need to peel the stalks to remove that woody layer, but if it doesn’t taste sweet under that they they are no good. There’s always next March/April/May…
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