If you want to make this soup in Paris, you've got to get yourself a corn dealer. And, to my knowledge, there's only one.
I'm not talking corn-in-the-can which is often sprinkled on the popular 'Salade Californienne' that graces the menus of trendy bistros. Or pre-husked corn wrapped in Saranwrap and set out for people to point and giggle at in supermarkets. I'm talking: fresh corn, in the husk, just picked.
It may sound crazy, if you haven't stopped to consider it before, but there is no such thing as fresh corn in any classic French recipe. "Corn is for pigs!" as one French Chef told me long ago. And considering that I am a little piggy when it comes to fresh corn, I'm happy to hog it all to myself. Oink.
I did get a chuckle over last month's French cooking publication, Elle à la Table, because they published a recipe for BBQ'd corn on the cob and made a point of emphasizing that Americans really like to eat it that way. Yes, we do. So maybe corn is getting a second chance in France? Yeah, and maybe pigs will fly and French kids will demand PB&J's with the crusts cut off. But, you never know, stranger things have happened.
The recipe for this soup is an adaptation from the 1 Michelin Star restaurant in San Francisco, Boulevard, created by chef & owner, Nancy Oaks. What makes the soup special is that she uses a corn stock created with the cobs to flavor the soup. Chef Oaks often tops this soup with lobster and always serves it alongside delicious mini crab cake souffles. For more recipes by Chef/Owner Nancy Oaks and Chef de Cuisine Pamela Mazzola check out their awesome new cookbook:
"Boulevard: The Cookbook" (Nancy Oakes, Pamela Mazzola, Lisa Weiss)
If you're really jonesing for corn, my dealer is on the tiny rue Poncelet in the 17th arrondisement. He's the guy that sells vegetables from a tiny stand. And he doesn't carry corn all the time – just so's you know So, don't get your hopes up for a regular fresh corn fix!
Sweet White Corn Soup adapted from restaurant Boulevard, by Nancy Oaks & Pamela Mazzola
Note: Chef Oaks and Chef Mazzola give 2 detailed ways to make this soup. I have modified their recipe slightly and I would encourage corn soup lovers to purchase their cookbook just to read their suggestions and inventions. And for the heavenly crab souffles that go alongside!
Serves 6-8 people
10 ears white corn, husked
2 onions chopped
3 large leeks chopped (white part only)
1 head garlic, halved crosswise
4 thyme sprigs
1 bay leaf
10 black pepper corns
4 quarts water
3 Tablespoons olive oil
5 Tablespoons unsalted butter
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Cut the corn off the 10 cobs and reserve. To make the corn stock: in a stock pot add the garlic, 1/2 the chopped onions, 1/3rd the chopped leeks, corn cobs plus any milk you can scrape from the cobs, thyme sprigs, bay leaf, pepper corns and 4 quarts of water. Bring to a boil then turn down the heat and simmer for 30 minutes. Strain the stock and reserve.
In another large pot sautée the remaining onions and leeks until soft but not browned, about 7 minutes. Add 8 cups of the corn stock and return to a boil. Add all but 1 cup of the corn kernels (reserve for garnish) and sauté for another 5 minutes until corn is just cooked and still a little crunchy. If the corn is over cooked, it will loose it's flavor. Purée the soup with the butter in a food processor until smooth, in batches. Add salt and pepper to taste. Strain (if you want to, sometimes I like it a little on the rustic side). Refrigerate until ready to serve. Can be made a few days ahead.
To serve: reheat the soup and place in bowls. Sauté the remaining corn kernels in butter with a little salt and pepper and spoon over. Garnish with chopped chives, crab, or lobster.
I made a really delicious fresh cream corn soup for restaurant service one time at school. I LOVE CORN – and if it’s for pigs, I’m a lil piggy too !
Of course, in the UK, I had to get used to saying “maize” for corn. The word “corn” was used in a general sense to refer to grain crops, including wheat.
I love your blog and read each new entry. One thing, I think Nancy Oaks' restaurant is 1 Michelin star. Still, 1 star is amazing. Thanks for you great blog. Keep up the good work.
Boulevard has 3 Michelin stars?! I never knew. It must have been before such an honor, the times I have eaten there. It certainly WAS delicious.
Quote: [“Corn is for pigs!”]
Ouch! What a blow to the american indians. Snotty little Pierre with his face in a bowl of snails. I betcha wanted to give him a big smack on the kisser (and I don’t mean that in the slightest positive way!) 😆
I hear you on the plastic-wrapped ears no the shelves…the ones I see look beyond ‘tender kernels’ stage. Fodder for pigs, I should say. heh heh
Oink. ^^ Corn is “jagung” in Bahasa Malaysia btw. Great stuff. For the pigs? Haha, food is food. ^^
This soup sounds delicious! Will make it when the fresh corn stands are selling in August in Minnesota!
Eric – you’re right Boulevard only has 1 star, I heard that it had 3, and I think they deserve 3 too, but thanks for the correction.
Joan – I like cream of corn soup too, yum.
SAS – Ha! Very interesting. I do remember calling corn mais when I lived in London, but I didn’t know corn was a reference for all grain.
Rowena – to some degree corn really is for pigs. It does fatten up and quick too! But, I just can’t imagine summer without it. Oh well…more for the rest of us!
Foxy – Thanks for the translation and yes food IS food.
Eileen – August?!?! That’s a long time to wait for fresh corn, but definitely put this recipe in your file, it’s dee-lish.
FYI… As a past 4-Her, I can also point out that there is “feed corn” (what the piggies and moo-cows eat) and “eatin’ corn” (I’m sure that’s an official term) for folkses. The Euros have never really grown eatin’ corn, so the only acquaintance they have is with the nasty feed type, which you really would NOT want on your dinner plate. Give me my fresh, tender, butter&sugar corn (the supersweet yellow & white eatin’ corn) and a pot of boiling water, and I’m in heaven. Don’t need no salt, butter, or nuthin’. Just don’t get in my way!!!! Oh, man, now you got me salivating!
SAS – Good point about the different types of corn. The thing that really gets me is when you drive towards Lyon there’s corn fields for miles and none of it is for us. Ha-rumph! Btw, have you ever tasted red corn before? Dying to try it.
Ha ha! Absolutely right on the pre-packed saran wrapped stuff. I haven’t been able to bring myself to buy it yet. I took the old-fashioned route last year and planted some in my garden. If it ever stops raining here I may try it again.
Red corn? Other than various multi-colored popcorn (no, not the chemically dyed stuff!), haven’t seen this. But since I’m in the oh so trendy Pacific Northwest, maybe I’ll hit a few farmers’ markets and see if anyone has it coming this summer.
When my mother was in boarding school in Scotland she said one of the special treats that the girls would get shipped into them was a can of American sweet corn. They would eat it for dessert. So I have a sentimental appreciation for the canned variety. Tho nothing beats fresh in season.
This makes me laugh. Whenever I eat corn Fred remarks eet eez food fit only to feed ze animals.
I just made this soup & it really does celebrate the essence of sweet corn. I especially loved the corn stock & its depth of flavor & my dogs loved the corn mash left over after running the soup through a chinois. Thanks to you & the ladies behind Boulevard!
Never was proud. Because a proud, you will be in should agree to the occasion stubborn; Because a proud, you will refuse the advice and friendship help, Because a proud, you will lose objective standard.
Yum, corn soup! This is one of the delicious soups I’ve tasted! When my sister got her tooth extracted, our grandma made her this one. In the end, I was the one who got all the soup! Hahaha!