Rhubarb, rhubarb, rhubarb, unique New York, unique New York, red leather, yellow leather, red leather, yellow leather… Okay, now that I’m warmed up, here’s my newest Spring cake creation! (And yes, I actually was a theater teacher and director in another life, thank you very much!)
This was a lot of fun to make with Layla and Hettie Rose. It was a birthday surprise for a neighbor who has had a most difficult year and we thought we’d bake her something special to cheer her up.
I’m really a pie and pastry maker, cakes are never my go-to dessert but I’m trying, trying, to be a better Mommy and embrace the whole over-the-top American cake thing. Why? Because Layla told me good mommies make cakes and asked why we didn’t make more cakes since “You’re a Chef and all, Mom”.
You know I could have made a thousand excuses to her: “They have too much sugar.” (which they do) “I prefer seasonal fruit desserts” (which I do) “They take a lot of time” (definitely true). But at the heart of it, and the real reason I don’t make a lot of cakes, is because I’m a lazy baker. I like to make things at home that I don’t need a recipe for and that includes all feuilltage pastries, tarts and pies.
So Layla actually is right, I need to step up my cake baking skills and get out of my comfort zone once and awhile. However, you can be sure that if I’m posting a cake recipe it’s going to be relatively quick, delicious and have seasonal fruit in it somewhere.
Rhubarb, raspberry and rose water are a beautiful combination –– absolutely gorgeous. I made a refrigerator jam for the cake by combining 4 large ruby red stalks chopped rhubarb with a few pints of raspberries and a cup of sugar cooked down on the stove top. After cooling my quick jam, I added a few splashes of rose water and then slathered it in between the layers. So good! And remember, don’t eat the leaves – they are poisonous!
This recipe is adapted from Cook’s Illustrated. It caught my eye because the technique is so different from every cake I’ve ever made. It’s almost like a pâte brisée technique, but it worked! I made the recipe twice following their steps the first time and then refining them on the second go because the cake did not rise the way the picture looked or create the quantity they suggested. Still, it’s a very easy and very tasty white cake with my improvements. There is no whipping egg whites into a meringue, no creaming butter and sugar – it’s easy!
The topping is that ever ethereal seven minute frosting which is quick to whip up (as the name suggests) and fun to spread on. I gave the cake a crumb coat, so as not to over do it with this sweet spread. At least there’s a lot of protein in it.
I’m on the fence about wrapping the cake with rhubarb slices. It looks cool and it’s easy to do, but I also like the crumb coat unfinished look. if you like it then find some long rhubarb stalks and make long shavings using a vegetable peeler. You can brush them with hot simple syrup and stick them in the oven to soften a bit. I suggest removing them before slicing. I did not test how long the slices stay put on the cake, but I would add these more as decoration before presenting the cake.
My Mom hated rhubarb. I don’t know why. I think it had to do with growing up during WWII and being forced to eat rhubarb desserts. It’s the only vegetable (yes, rhubarb is a vegetable not a fruit) I can remember that she would actually cringe and turn a slight shade of green just in mentioning its name. I didn’t have rhubarb until I was much, much older because I was scared of it. But now I love it. I found this quote, which I’ll leave you with because clearly other people feel the same. Do you love rhubarb? I’m curious, let me know!
“Human growth is not like rhubarb. It can be nurtured and encouraged but it cannot be forced!” — Andy Hargreaves
Ingredients
- For the White Cake:
- 1 cup whole milk, room temperature
- 6 large egg whites, room temperature
- 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
- 2 1/4 cups cake flour
- 1 3/4 cup baking sugar (fine)
- 4 teaspoons baking powder
- 1 teaspoon salt
- 12 tablespoons unsalted butter cut into small cubes, soft to the touch but not melted
- For the Rhubarb Rasberry Rose Jam
- 4 cups 1-inch pieces fresh red rhubarb (about 1 1/2 pounds)
- 1 1/2 cups sugar
- 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
- 2 pint baskets of raspberries
- 2 tablespoon cornstarch
- 2 tablespoons of rose water
- Seven-Minute Frosting
- 1 1/2 cups sugar
- 1/3 cup cold water
- 2 large egg whites
- 2 teaspoons light corn syrup or 1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar
- pinch of salt
- 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
For the White Cake:
Grease and flour three 8-inch round cake pans, or grease pans and line with parchment. This can also be made as a 2-layer cake.
In a medium bowl using either an electric hand mixer or just a whisk: beat the milk, egg whites and vanilla together until super frothy and light.
In the bowl of a standing mixer sift flour, baking powder and salt. Fit the mixer with a paddle attachment and mix the dry ingredients together a little more. Add soft butter, one piece at time, until pea-size pieces are formed, about 2 minutes. Add milk mixture in one go, increase speed to medium-high and beat for 1 minute.
Divide batter between cake pans and smooth with a spatula. Bake until inserted toothpick in center comes out with only a few crumbs attached, around 22-23 minutes. Let cakes cool in pans for 5 minutes (on a wire rack), then remove cakes completely onto wire racks and let cool completely before icing.
For the Rhubarb, Raspberry, Rose Jam:
Combine rhubarb chunks, raspberries, sugar and lemon juice in pot and allow to sit for ten minutes, this will draw out some of the juices. Bring rhubarb mixture to simmer over medium heat, stirring until sugar dissolves. Increase heat to high and boil until rhubarb mixture thickens slightly, about 6 minutes. Make a cornstarch slurry and pour into boiling jam, stirring until thick. Remove jam from heat and cool completely before adding rose water. This jam can be stored for one week. I only add a little cornstarch because the jam needs to stay put on the cake, it is optional, if you feel your jam is thick enough to hold up under pressure then leave it out!
For the Seven Minute Frosting (makes 3 cups, if you want to fully frost an entire 3-layer cake, then double this recipe)
In the top of a double boiler (you can use your standing mixing bowl over a pot filled with 2-inches of boiling water – just make sure the bowl doesn't actually touch the water below), combine the sugar, water, egg whites, corn syrup or cream of tartar, and the pinch of salt. Whisk mixture constantly until a candy thermometer registers 160˚F and the mixture is smooth to the touch and not grainy. Place bowl in standing mixer fitted with a whisk attachment and continue to beat on medium speed until soft peaks form. Add the vanilla and increase speed to Medium-high. Continue until mixture is cool and stiff peaks form, about 5-7 minutes longer. Use immediately, it will set up quickly.
To Make:
Place the first layer on the cake stand you intend to use with parchment paper or waxed paper underneath (place in two sheets, so it's easier to pull out). Pipe a ring of frosting around the edge of the cake and smear a thick layer of jam in between. Place the second layer cake on top and repeat. Add the third layer and give the entire cake a crumb coat or light coat of frosting. If the frosting has come out in between the layers you can smear this around using a pastry edge. Pipe extra on top and use a fork to make swirls.
If you like the finished look of rhubarb around the cake, then find some extra long rhubarb stalks and make long shavings with a vegetable peeler (press hard so you have nice slices). Brush the rhubarb with simple syrup and stick them in the oven at 350˚F to soften a bit for 4-5 minutes – not long, they will fall apart if completely cooked. You might want to remove them before slicing the cake because rhubarb can be stringy.
