This job is really breaking me down. I’m no wimp but working in a 3-star restaurant at the meat station for 13 hours a day, 6 days a week during hunting season, in a traditional French kitchen is starting to feel like hell’s inferno. The heat, the yelling, the fear of messing up, never having enough time in the day to finish all the prep work, the constant criticism, the language barrier…everything…I don’t know how much longer I can do this.
My hands are permanently blood stained (out out damn spot!) and no matter how much bleach or hydrogen pyroxide I use it won’t go away. They are swollen from gutting hunted animals by hand and getting pricked by tiny bullet shattered bones – so much so, that I can’t even get my engagement ring over my knuckle let alone make a tight fist. The scars on my hands, wrists and arms from cooking and accidents (like the time I tripped on a box left on the floor and landed hands first onto our massive hot plate stove burning the entire side of my hand and wrist) are obscene.
I’m a mess.
And then there’s this other hellish part of cooking in a French kitchen that is hard to describe. Imagine being around the same people in a very small space in a very hot environment (around 80˚F during prep and 90˚F during service) for 13 hours a day every day. No cubicles or dividers. There is no hiding anything. Your life is visible for everyone to see and vice versa. If you’re tired they see it, if you’re upset or happy they see it, if you get yelled at by one of the chefs and break down in tears they see it. It’s like living in a green house and the heat just gets hotter and hotter until you just want to explode.
Last week I did something totally unprofessional that I still feel a little guilty about and got verbally ripped apart in front of the whole staff by the Executive chef. I took some chocolate chips from the pastry kitchen to my meat station to munch on during service. Why? I don’t know. I needed chocolate. I got my period for the second time during the month (which has never happened to me before) and I couldn’t handle the emotional roller coaster let alone the pain and needed something to make me happy.
I also have a new boss at the meat station and my old boss doesn’t see eye to eye with him and they both stress me out completely because they do everything differently. Hard to please two men at the same time! Not to mention my total exhaustion or the fact that I’ve worked there for free for 4 months and have never once asked for anything. Merde, I figured if a cup of chocolate chips was going to get me through the evening in one piece, then who cares? But the Executive chef saw me carry up the cup of chocolate chips and stopped me.
We’ve had this disgusting smelly bird grouse on the menu for the last few weeks and we were using dark chocolate chips in the sauce to deepen the flavor so I always had a few chips stored in my fridge. But it just so happened that we were sold out of grouse that day and no more would be arriving for the rest of the week. I thought I would just get some more chips and no one would notice.
But the executive chef did notice and in French yelled at me for everyone to hear. He was so pleased with himself for catching me in my little chocolate chip caper. Like he had solved the biggest crime of the century. “Grouse is not on the menu tonight!” he screamed in French. I tried to ignore him and go to my station because I knew I couldn’t make him understand in broken French how desperate I was for chocolate and I didn’t want to yell back at him that “I’m a woman, and I have cramps, and I feel like passing out in this f’ing heat, and I’m tired of two crazy French meat chefs bossing me around and then getting mad at me for doing things the way the other one likes it, and I work here for free, and I NEED CHOCOLATE!” He yelled at me full force to bring the chocolate chips back down to the pastry kitchen. Sooooo embarrassing.
To make matters worse my old boss yelled at me too and gave me that look that only a disappointed parent can give , “How could you do this? It’s so unprofessional. Why didn’t you put the chips in your pockets so no one would see? Amy, how could you do this?” Yeah right – put them in my pockets so they can melt into my pants? What’s the point of that? It was hard enough to have the exectuive chef yell at me, but then to have my old boss double the pain was mortifying. I felt like a two year old kid caught with her hand in the cookie jar, not a grown independent woman.
I couldn’t help thinking, “You should be paying me right now and the only reason you’re not is because I can’t get my work permit sorted out. If I want chocolate chips, then pay me in chocolate chips. I do the work of Comis for the Chef de Viande – one of the most pretigious and demanding parts of the kitchen – and if I need some sugar to make it through the evening then let me have it! Everyone knows I’m working here for free and knows how much work I do and all the extra hours I put in.”
My new boss could sense that I was either about to walk out for good or sob uncontrollably so he sent me down to the pastry kitchen to return the chocolate chips and retrieve a few dead birds from the walk in fridge. He was sweet enough to tell me to stay in the fridge for awhile. “Don’t come back up until you’ve cooled off, okay?” I came back up birds in hand this time – no chocolate chips – and returned eyes downcast to my station. He told me he needed all the birds gutted, filleted, and hacked into the tiniest pieces possible. Luckily, it was the beginning of service and not many orders had come through yet.
I did as I was told trying to refrain from unleashing a flood of tears. When I got to hacking the birds apart I just let those poor little creatures have it. I pictured the chef on my cutting board and I let my cleaver cleave away until my board was covered in blood and the walls around me splattered with a thin spray or red. Ah, much better. I turned to my new boss and asked what he wanted me to do with the birds. He said, “Nothing. I just thought it might make you feel a little better.” It did.
I then proceeded to focus on de-boning a huge pile of fifty ducks legs and picking the tiny balls of shot out of their flesh. That kept me going for quite awhile until the orders started to fly in one after another. The good thing is, my new boss is English and we can talk and joke and no one has a clue what we’re saying. So the whole night my boss kept me sane with French jokes and English humor.
I told him at the end of service that I thought I wasn’t cut out for this job and asked if there was another person he would rather work with. I went on to tell him that I would be willing to train another person and then leave. But he said to me, “I will work with you and only you. When you go I would rather work alone. You will be here as long as I’m here and I will teach you how to cook.” I told him that I was only going to be there for the next month and then that’s it. But he replied, “You will stay for six more months.”
Well, I don’t know if that’s possible with my work permit situation but it was sure a little piece of heaven in Hell’s Kitchen!
The next morning there was a bar of dark chocolate in my knife box from my old boss.
Apology accepted.
Technorati Tags: 3-star restaurant, Chef, Cooking School, Cuisine, french, Paris restaurants
I’ve been reading your blog for a while now – don’t give up! You will be so richly rewarded for your hard work, and it’s obvious you are learning a lot and doing well. Don’t let the chocolate caper get you down 🙂
What a fantastic bit of writing! Thank you for sharing your story with us, both the frustrating parts and the fun parts.
I’ve been living in Paris for a few weeks and have had my share of frustrations too. But about once a day I think of your blog posts and ask my friends “so, where can we get game in Paris?” Other than your fine restaurant, that is. Anyway, it’s a lot of work but those of us who can only eat food, not make it, appreciate your efforts greatly!
Thanks Nelson. I really appreciate your comment! That makes it all worth it. You should come into the restaurant for dinner or lunch. We do a hundred euro lunch menu that is a LOT of food and totally worth the experience.
Green Fermina – Thanks! I managed to hold my head up Saturday and no one yelled at me. The entrée chaud chef got yelled at instead. It seems to rotate around the restaurant.
Keep uìon going Ms. Glaze! ;-)Iìm following you parisian adventures since some months now and you’ve already shown so much strenght and determination, I’m sure you’ll get over the hunting period as well…
ps: I’m coming to paris for a month thiss fall and I must say I’m considering to come and have dinner at Guy Savoy, not because I’m such a fan of his cooking but because of the blogger in the kitchen 🙂
Sigrid – you must come in and eat!!! I promise I will make it worth your while. If you make a reservation make sure you say you are a friend of mine and email me the date and time of your reservation.
You are very brave and strong. I don’t know if I could do what you’re doing.
Oh my poor thing! What a story! Hell! How can they treat you like this?? Btw, really bummed we could not meet in paris when i was there. If only you and I had had more time….I should have kidnapped you from the nazi chef, and tell him in French, mais quel con celui-la alors!
Great writing, you took me there from the start to the end and that sweet little chocolate bar. I’m now working in an Italian restaurant-as a hostess-although the head chef has shown interest in getting me inside the kitchen. “But I can’t make you put your hair in one of those hats,” he said. I told him he had to look at me another way and get me in there. Time will tell, for now I remain a hostess, but you give me hope.
You show a lot of bravery in exposing yourself and your vulnerabilty not only in the kitchen, but online to countless strangers as well – which is so admirable.
I am a female line-cook as well and have had many similar experiences – ALL of which occured in almost full male kitchens. The daily practice of taking your frustrations out on each other is a common one – harder to resist the longer you are there. And by being a female in an all-male kitchen, not only are you automatically “separated” because of your gender, but it feels that you must overcompensate your toughness, agressiveness and culinary capabilites just to have respect. Its a hard position to be in – but you’re handling the situation strongly.
I once worked in a kitchen in which I was working the pantry station – all the desserts and salads – for a 200 seat restaurant. I could handle it – barely (seeing as i was still in cooking school) – and the executive chef comes over to my area. He starts screaming at the top of his lungs about “how dare we send shitty quality food out” while holding a bowl in his hand. He then slams the bowl onto the ground, and it smashes into a hundred pieces – and all the whole room goes silent (did i mention it was an open kitchen?). He then storms off — i was perplexed – because we didn’t serve desserts OR salads in bowls… i looked down and realized it was a bowl of fried calamari… FROM A DIFFERENT STATION. Apparently it was a lot easier for him to yell at me than it was to yell at the line cook at the fryer station.
Needless to say, i didn’t work there for much longer.
It seems like you’re doing great – with such an incredible opportunity!
it’ll only get easier!
Ms. Glaze, I truly admire you.
You are handling yourself wonderfully in a difficult situation. I’m sure it doesn’t feel like that now because of the fatigue, but I’m sure that you won’t regret this experience. Hang in there.
Who would have thought that chopping birds into little pieces could be therapeutic? Although those bird heads still wig me out.
Wonderful, Ms. Glaze! I’ve been following your adventures as well.
While I’m sorry to hear that you’re having a bit of a stressful time, I’m delighted to hear you recount it all so vividly!
I hope the work permit is sorted out soon. The stereotype of French bureaucracy has a bit of truth behind it… Call, call again!
i agree, a little chocolate in compensation is only fair. i do envy that you got to pulverize a chicken to unleash your inner thoughts. that must have been the most gratifying feeling after being yelled at.
your permit will work out. keep the faith and if all else fails see if they will pay you under the table until it comes in…
Ms. Glaze:
It’s my first time reading your column. It evoked many times in my own life when I’ve wanted to revenge myself on bosses who were injust. Still, it’s a great adventure you’re on…keep on!
I detect a modicum of understanding from your chef; who had you hack a couple of birds to bits (beats hacking chefs to bits – I guess). You’re doing alright. Better than 92% of the cooks out there. It’s pressure, sure, but if the dude says he wants you there for 6 months then you’ve _really_ accomplished something.
6 by 13 is a bit much though. I’d advise asking for a 4 day “weekend” – – to avoid burnout (a resto “weekend” of Monday, Tues, Wednes, Thurs).
Oh my goodness. First off, the photo on this blog is hysterical. Although I felt terrible for you and the mess that you are in, this blog definately made me chuckle out loud in the middle of the library. Everyone seemed to want to know what was funny, and when I replied “She’s the choclate caper” I definately got some strange looks. I miss you!!!
Good Evening Ms. Glaze 🙂
Thanks for the kind attention! I must say that I have something like 3000 parisian adresses I should visit (I had the very stupid idea to ask my readers for some parisian adresses and the result is I should eat four or five times a day, every day, the whole month, to get a look at everything they suggested me :-)) But, and I promise that, I’ll try to hop by! (Anyway I’ll surely let you know… and I hope they’ll also let you leave the kitchen at end of the dinner so we can meet!) Thanks again! 😉
great post ms glaze – i was so angry on your behalf and then my heart melted as the olive branches were extended.
Great post (as usual!). Don’t get too discouraged. They know they are very lucky to have you. My guess is that the Nazi chef feels dissed by having a woman in the kitchen (loss of his prestige if women can do his job!) and that the old chef was only annoyed that you got caught by the N.c. It’s bad luck to work with the N.c. but I suspect everyone will be nicer to you for the next few days. You should maybe tell the Englishman how you feel about a few chocolate chips vs working unpaid: he can pass along the word….
Oh that sounds like a horrible day. Boo nazi chef! Doesn’t he understand that chocolate feeds the soul? What an ass!
Don’t give up yet. You are having some fabulous experiences, even if as you say you are in a French version of hell’s inferno. Your stories are priceless and I was horrified and laughing hysterically about you chopping up those little birds. Keep the faith! Don’t give up yet 😉
You are much braver and stronger than most of us – congrats on sticking with it and keep your head up! I am so glad that your bosses seemed to understand a little at the end!
P.S. I have accumulated burn scars at an alarming rate since I started working pastry – it hurt my vanity at first but now I just say “oh well!”
All women need chocolate! Even the French know that.
Glad the chef realized it to, and gave you the good stuff…
You need a drink at the end of your shift.. let me know..
Hopefully Eric is up to the evening service to take your mind off things. 😉
Thanks for all the words of encouragment and I love hearing about other peoples kitchen tales!!!
Bisous, Ms. glaze
Ms. Glaze… Keep your chin up.. you are totally, awesome and I think of you as superwoman.. =)
One more gal who sends you lots of encouragement all the way from Seattle =D
PS I think your boss ought to keep many bars of chocolate for you.
100EU/head lunch tasting menu and they’re not paying you? I’d at least steal a bite of that baby boar.
Here’s a tip from a chocolate expert (well, a chocolate thief expert is more accurate).
First line yr pocket with a plastic baggie..do they have these in Paris? I didn’t see any. Then stuff the chocolate inside! Besides spattered Boar’s blood falling into yr chocolate chip cup is not a great idea. Rotten luck that these two bosses are fighting over you. They’re probably both crazy in love with you but don’t dare show it…
This story brought a really big smile on my face. I’m checking in on your adventures after being too busy for a while, and I am glad to see that you are still rocking the Parisian underground 😉
Hold tight!
–nico
I was looking for info on Mexican food in Paris and ended up in this post. Crazy story. Good luck. I’ll keep reading.